Some exciting news from a couple of weeks ago–Lindsay Straw and I opened up for fiddle player Frankie Gavin at the Burren Backroom Series in Somerville, MA on June 15! We joined him for a few sets on stage at the end. Click on the link below to hear us!
I’m excited to be playing a couple of sets with fellow flute & whistle player Tim Buckley for the New England Harp Orchestra’s upcoming show at the Burren in Somerville!
Tickets are $10 (+ small service fee) in advance, $14 at the door. All ages welcome.
I am delighted to be teaching a few classes at the Milton Art Center in East Milton Square coming up in February: a Kids’ Intro to Tin Whistle Class; Adult Beginner Tin Whistle; and an Irish Music Ensemble Class. Please see information and links to registration below, and please do share to interested, aspiring musicians!
Kids’ Intro to Tin Whistle is a 6-week course that will teach children ages 6-9 the basics of the tin whistle, a traditional Irish instrument similar to a recorder. We will learn to play simple traditional Irish tunes and songs; play games that introduce the concepts of notes, scales, tuning, and rhythm; and learn a bit about Irish culture. Since Irish music is an aural tradition (passed on by ear), we will focus on strengthening our ears and learning to play by ear! Music notation will be provided as a reference. At the end of the course, we will have a small recital to showcase what we’ve learned!
When: Wednesday, for 6 weeks: Wednesday, Feb. 24 – Wednesday, March 30.
Time: 4:30pm – 5:00pm. $60.
Materials Needed: Recording device, folder, tin whistle. Whistles available for purchase from instructor if needed.
Beginner Tin Whistle (Adults) is an 8-week course that will teach the basics of the tin whistle, a traditional Irish instrument similar to a recorder. We will learn to play simple traditional Irish tunes and songs; introduce the concepts of notes, scales, tuning, and rhythm; and learn a bit about Irish culture. Since Irish music is an aural tradition (passed on by ear), we will focus on strengthening our ears and learning to play by ear! Music notation will be provided as a reference.
When: Wednesdays, for 8 weeks: Wednesday, Feb. 10 – Wednesday, March 30.
Time: 6:30pm – 7:30pm
Materials Needed: Recording device, folder, tin whistle. Whistles available for purchase from instructor if needed.
Irish Music Ensemble is an 8-week course open to all ages and instruments that will explore playing Irish music in a group. This course is best suited for musicians who already confidently play at least 4-7 tunes. We will focus on learning traditional Irish tunes and songs, and arranging them in formats as both a Ceili Band (all instruments play the melody) and a Groupa Cheoil (different instruments play different parts). Learning how to “play well with others”, proper etiquette at traditional Irish sessions, and harmonies will also be discussed. Since Irish music is an aural tradition (passed on by ear), we will focus on strengthening our ears and learning to play by ear! Music notation will be provided as a reference. Go on—it’s easier than you think!
When: Wednesdays, for 8 weeks: Wednesday, Feb. 10 – Wednesday, March 30.
Time: 7:45pm – 8:45pm. $160.
Materials Needed: Recording device, folder, instrument, enthusiasm.
Tomorrow night at 8pm East-Coast time, I’ll be playing tunes and singing songs with partner-in-crime Lindsay Straw! Concert Window is an incredible online platform where you can watch performances from the comfort of your living room. And sometimes, the performers play from the comfort of their own living rooms, too! It’s a $2 minimum donation, and you have the option of tipping more (hint, hint). You can also write comments in a little dialogue box on the screen to interact with the musicians.
Here’s the link:
(Not to be confused with one of my all-time favorite books, Steinbeck’s Travels with Charley)
I got my first migraine headache when I was ten years old. In the middle of a fifth-grade math exam, I became aware of a hot, stabbing pain behind my eye. Squiggles swan across my vision; nausea swept through me; I struggled to grip my pencil to solve life-or-death (so it seemed to me) fractions equations . Dutiful student that I was, I finished my exam and asked permission to see the nurse. My teacher took one look at my pale, shaky little fifth-grade body and immediately got another student to escort me down. The next seven hours were a blur of intense pain, intermittent bouts of vomiting, trying and failing to watch cartoons, and noise sensitivity before I finally slipped, exhausted, into post-migraine sleep.
Thus began my lifelong journey with migraines. Hooray!
If you think migraines are just like any other headache, please think again. They are neurological, and usually cannot be tamed with your regular ol’ Advil or Aspirin. They are the type of pain I wouldn’t wish on my worst enemy. Ever had a hot poker pressed into your eye socket for 6+ hours? Experienced an aura (like the patterns you see when you look at a light, then away) in one eye and been unable to form coherent sentences, akin to the onset of a stroke? Know the best containers to throw up in because you’ve had to do so in everything from plastic bags to coffee cups? Congratulations: you experience migraines.
I’ve learned to adapt to traveling and socializing with migraines as I’ve gotten older. Luckily, my worst migraine years seem to have been during high school, with an average of at least one full-blown migraine a week causing me to miss school, sports, clubs, etc. Darn those pesky female hormones. My biggest triggers these days are lack of sleep, lack of food, stress, and the occasional weather pattern (changing swiftly from high to low pressure areas or the reverse). Stress, no sleep, eating at weird times? Helloooooo, international travel (and college)! In the past two years, I’ve started getting a new type of migraine–yes, there are different types, just to spread the love, ya know. I’ve experienced one nine-day migraine last year, and another ten-day one this past year. These migraines don’t come with an aura, and I can usually carry on most daily activities with them until several days in, when bouts of nausea start to pop up. They consist of a constant, dull pain behind the left eye, that gradually becomes heavier and hurts more as the days pass.
I manage these triggers by really tuning into my body. For example, I know that if I’m to stay out late, I NEED to sleep in the next day. If I know I won’t be able to do so, I’ll tear myself away from whatever’s going on and head to bed. There are rare occasions where late-night activities are so good, it’d be criminal to miss them–like at a session or festival particularly in Ireland, when you’re not sure you’ll get to experience it again. When that happens, I try to drink as much water as possible, grab a snack, and plan a breakfast for the next morning/afternoon. I can survive the lack of sleep if I’m properly fed and watered, but no sleep + no food = stressed Caroline, which creates my migraine Bermuda Triangle, where good times go to die. While my multi-day migraines are awful, they serve as a barometer for how my body’s doing. I will get a “prickle” behind my left eye if I’m too tired, hungry, or stressed, and usually, if I treat the situation right away, the prickle goes away.
I wish I was one of those people who could stay up all night, have a cup of coffee the next morning, and be ready to go again in the afternoon. Unfortunately, I don’t like coffee, and my body constitution is not designed for such feats of strength. I’ve missed too many social outings due to being laid up with a migraine; learning to take a step back and recharge my batteries was one of the hardest yet most rewarding life lessons I’ve learned. And hey, let’s face it: as a musician, it can be really hard to go to bed at, say, 1am, when everyone else stays up playing until 6. I, and others who have health conditions, have to remind myself that missing out on those five hours of pre-dawn fun is totally worth it in the long run.
Whenever I visit a new city, I take it upon myself to learn what makes it tick. Long, meandering walking tours punctuated by bouts of photo-taking and people-watching; finding that corner cafe tucked on a city side street; sitting on a park bench with a good book (weather permitting!) and listening to the chatter of native city-goers. New destinations are an escape from the monotony of your day-to-day activities, and as we all know, variety is the spice of life. However, what happens when we escape into other destinations so much, we forget to appreciate where we’re currently living?
I live in the city of Boston, right along the final miles of the Boston Marathon route. I’m from a small suburb of the city originally, and apart from some short stints abroad and some college years in the neighboring state of Rhode Island (affectionately thought of as Massachusett’s little brother), this area has always been my home base. It’s easy to forget how incredible one’s surroundings are when they aren’t new. Boston has so much to offer–nearby beaches, accessible museums, walkable, and that lovely Masshole charm–but because I’m not a Boston newbie, I’ve been walking around with my head in the proverbial sand. My recent trip to Dublin, a city I’ve visited on many occasions through the good times and bad, reignited my curiosity for my native city. In Dublin, I saw every street and every shop in a new light. I visited the Natural Museum of Ireland – Archaeology, went to my favorite coffee place at the George’s Street Arcade, and people-watched like mad. I’ve resolved to look at Boston in the same light: with appreciation and curiosity.
Here are a few activities in Boston I’m hoping to do over the spring and summer. What new things will you try in your native city?
- Duckboat Tour. I’ve heard good reviews about the Duckboats from both tourists and Native Bostonians, so they must be good!
- Ride the Swan Boats in the Boston Public Gardens. I did this when I was a little kid, but at $3 a pop, it’s criminal I haven’t gone since.
- Go to the Haymarket Farmers’ Market.
- Visit one of the Boston Harbor Islands. I grew up going to Castle Island in Southie and have taken the ferry to the New England Aquarium. I visited George’s Island once when I was younger; it’s time for a comeback!
- Climb Bunker Hill Monument. Don’t climb until you can see the whites of their eyes…
- Visit the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum. Love me some art.
- Go to the Waterworks Museum in Brighton. The history of Boston’s water systems + water conservation are actually quite interesting. Plus, it’s close to me. Double win!
- Have a drink in every bar in my neighborhood. You know, for research purposes. Even if it’s just one drink. How else will I know where to bring visitors?
These are just a handful of cool, relatively cheap adventures you can have in the city of Boston. From experience, I also endorse finding cheap, spontaneous Boston sports tickets on StubHub.com, walking the Freedom Trail (you don’t need to book a tour–just grab a map!), visiting the Museum of Science, checking out Club Passim in Cambridge for good food and good folk music, and much more.
I’ll be doing a post on activities on the South Shore (from Quincy down to the Cape) and North Shore (Beverly, Gloucester, Ipswich, etc.!) of Massachusetts soon. I’ll try to do Western Massachusetts as well, but I’m less familiar with that area. Any suggestions, let me know!
Here’s the thing.
There will be a time when you decide to take a trip to Ireland, and stop in Dublin to see friends you haven’t seen in years. Upon arrival in Dublin, you will bring your instruments to a well-known music session to meet said friends. When the session ends at 12:30am, your friends will take you to a well-known, late-night nightclub. At the nightclub, you will all order gin & tonics, fight through the crowds, and marvel at how much and how little has changed in three years. You will leave your coats and bags in a pile on the floor; but, because you all play Irish music and are overprotective of your instruments, you make sure to stand close guard over your cargo.
A few drinks later, you will decide it’s a great idea to head down to the dance floor. You bring your bags and instruments and decide to leave them unattended on the benches of the dance floor perimeter. They are within your line of vision, and while you’re dancing around proclaiming your love of the city, one of you makes sure to check on them every ten minutes. Life is good.
Around 2:30am, your paranoia will get the best of you, and you will head to the bag pile, planning on putting your cross-shoulder bag back in its rightful place. You will notice your flute case is not, in fact, in your bag, but is on a ledge right above the bench. You will think nothing of it, reach into your bag to double-check that your phone and wallet will be there–and will find the bag conspicuously spacious. Your two cell phones (Irish and American, natch) will be there. Your lip gloss will be there. Your wallet, containing cash, your American driver’s license, debit card, and passport, will not. You will quell the panic rising in your chest as you check under coats, other bags, behind the bench, on the dance floor. You will tell your friends, who in turn tell the bouncers, who tell you to wait until the club closes at 5am to see if the wallet turns up with the lights on. You won’t find it, and you will leave after having a minor, girly meltdown, images of deportation lines, exorbitant international fees, and feeling like a first-class idiot.
The next day, you will find out that the American Embassy is closed on both Sundays and American holidays. The Embassy also does not consider losing one’s passport to constitute an emergency. Since you lost your passport on a Saturday night, and Monday happens to be the Presidents’ Day holiday, you will not be able to do anything about your passport until Tuesday. You will curse yourself and the Embassy, knowing full well that a city girl who has traveled to Dublin multiple times has no excuse for letting her guard down like that.
You will go visit your cousins in neighboring Wicklow, and they will be kind enough to drive you into the Embassy on Tuesday morning. You will arrive expecting hours of red tape and bureaucracy. You give your name to the man out front, who, after making a quick phone call, will look you in the eye and say “Right, you may be sorted.” You’ll store your electronics, walk into the passport office, and see the man behind the counter gesticulating towards you. He will hold up your wallet–your precious!–and, reading from your passport, say “Are you Caroline?”
Apparently, someone, somewhere found your wallet and, upon discovering the passport, turned it in to the embassy. Whoever stole it simply fished the cash out and tossed the excess in the gutter. You will feel the giant knot deep within your gut unravel. You will praise God, Jesus, the powers-that-be, and Karma for this stroke of luck, and feel immense grateful that you have a support system in this country. You will also resolve to never be as stupid as to leave your valuables unattended in a club, and to avoid carrying purses whenever possible.
This new resolution comes in handy when, one week later, your friend has her purse stolen when the two of you are walking back to her apartment. That, however, is a tale of admonishment for another post.
The big trip is two days away. It’s time to start packing! I’m not an over-packer, per se, but I always seem to end up with a few unworn shirts happily resting in my suitcase by the end of the trip. I can also be…how shall I put this…a bit absentminded. I’ll pack contact lenses and contact solution, but forget the case. Bring appropriate shoes, but no socks. Sigh.
I’ve found it helpful to write down a master list of everything I’ll need on a trip, divided into sections: clothes, toiletries, medicine, etc. It’s also helpful for me to visualize my daily routine as I write items down. That way, I’m less prone to forgetting an essential item. Every time I buy a cheap $5 hairbrush when abroad, a little part of my budget travel soul dies inside. My trip to Ireland will be 13 days total. I salute you men, with your (usual) lack of jewelry & moisturizers, shoes for all occasions, and grab-pants-and-go attitudes. Without further ado, here is my list.
- 1 jacket (fleece, warm yet breathable)
- 1 rain shell (essential!)
- Leggings & shirt (plane travel)
- 2 pants
- 2 skirts
- 2 tights
- 6 shirts
- 1-2 sweaters
- Bunch of socks (Including wool socks. It will be cold and wet.)
- Undisclosed undergarments (Use your imaginations, kids).
- 2 scarves (I’m addicted to scarves).
- Pajama shirt & bottom
Shoes: The weather will be in the 40s, overcast, and rainy. I’m not a fancy shoe gal. Hence, I’m bringing:
- Rain boots
- Tall boots
- Short boots (It’s all about the boots).
- Soap (& soap case)
- Toothbrush (& case)
- Face wash
- Other lotion (winter is not kind to my skin)
- Eye care: contact lens case, solution, glasses, glasses case.
Makeup & Jewelry: If you can travel light with this, it’s a good idea. I bring the basics:
- Blush & brush
- Lip balm (Bert’s Bees!!!!!!!!!)
- 2 earrings
- 2 necklaces (I’m not a bracelet/ring gal).
- *Hair elastics (I am recently short-haired, so won’t be needing these! However, this used to be a travel essential).
Medicine: If there’s one thing you do NOT want to forget, it’s your medicine!
- Advil (a big dose of this, combined with my meds, can help lessen a migraine headache for me. Also, I guarantee someone else you encounter will have cramps/splitting headache/other aches and will ask you for ibuprofen).
- Migraine medications
- iPhone & charger (planning to use iPhone as camera, recorder, & for email as necessary)
- Irish mobile & charger (will top up for 20 euro and use as phone; simpler than switching the iPhone over for a short length of time)
- Plug converter
Essentials: This is up there with medications. You CANNOT forget these puppies.
- Plane tickets/boarding pass
- Cash & bank card
- Snacks. Tons of snacks. SO many snacks. Snacks ward off hanger and headaches.
- Earplanes (earplug-like things that help ears adjust to pressure changes because my ears are delicate flowers)
- Nail clipper (only in your checked bag, of course)
- iPod (I’ll use my phone)
- Towels (if you’re not sure your destination provides them)
- Reusable water bottle
- Ear plugs (for the plane and if your destination has noisy nightlife)
I plan to have one checked bag and one small carry-on bag with my essentials: meds, snacks, passport, instruments, and so on. What are your travel packing tips? Are you an over packer, an under packer, or the rare and beautiful perfect packer? Let me know, and bon voyage!
Next Thursday, I’ll be flying across the pond for a sort-of spontaneous, long-awaited, 12-day trip to Ireland! I plan on staying with friends in Dublin for a few days, then taking the train down to Killarney in Co. Kerry to teach a few classes at the Killarney School of Music. While in Killarney, I suppose I’ll have to drag myself to The Gathering, a fantastic traditional Irish music festival held in the area each February. And in the Dublin area, I have plans to visit relatives in Wicklow, go to a few sessions, and explore literary Dublin via the James Joyce Museum and other sundry attractions. Hmm. Friends, family, music, teaching, and a festival…how’s a girl supposed to fit all this into ten measly days of traveling (subtracting 1 day on each end for travel time)?
This is the seventh time I’ve traveled to Ireland, and if I have my way, it certainly won’t be the last. It’s the second solo trip I’ve planned, paid for, and taken, the first being to Tullamore in Co. Offaly when I was nineteen. I’ve spent time in most areas of the country with varying degrees of respectable people, navigated Bus Eireann from cities into parts unknown, nearly lost my flute on a trolley at Dublin Airport, and played music in the most surprising places. From these experiences, I’ve cobbled a few basic tenets of sensible budget travel. Well, mostly sensible…
1. Plan Ahead. This seems like common sense; however, common sense seems to be less common these days. Research the public transportation infrastructure of your destination beforehand. For example, in Dublin, the DART can take you to the seaside in Howth or Bray. You can dramatically lower the cost of your flight by searching for flights often and early, and by flying at the right time of year. Flights to Ireland are at their lowest in January, February, and the end of March (after St. Patrick’s Day). They are also fairly low in November. I caught my flight from Boston, with one layover in London’s Heathrow airport, for around $630 round-trip. Compare that to over $1,000 round-trip Boston-Dublin in the summer months. Granted, Irish weather is generally lovely in the summer, with flowers in bloom and days lasting until 9pm. But this is Ireland on a budget, people. Sorry. If you’re exploring the west of Ireland, flying into Shannon Airport is a cheaper option. My flight was on average ~$100 cheaper if I arrived in Shannon, which is an hour ride or so away from Galway City. The Shannon flight schedule is erratic, so make sure you check their schedule!
2. Budget Travel. Once you step off the plane, you’ll need to get from point A to point B efficiently and affordably. I recommend researching the cheapest way from the airport to wherever you’re going, too. The last thing you want is to be jet-lagged, hungry, confused, and searching the airport terminal for the right bus into City Centre at 7am after a long-haul flight. If you have friends or family picking you up: you lucky devils, you. When contemplating inter-county travel, it’s best to consult your options. I need to travel from Dublin, in the east, to Killarney in the southwest, a journey that requires taking either the bus or the train. I was prepared to bus it from Dublin, which I knew would take at least four hours if I was lucky, and 6-7 if I was not, given the multiple transfers and the meandering, unpredictable nature of Irish roads. Lo and behold, my friend–with whom I’m staying, free of charge!–told me the train is faster and usually cheaper when bought in advance, with only one transfer. 10 euro one-way on the train, compared to 30 euro on the bus, with less headache? Yes please.
3. Budget Room & Board. The cheapest options in Ireland are hostels, hidden B&B’s, and of course, friends and family. Seriously. I’m not saying that you should barge in on your great-aunt once removed unexpectedly, or call up that dude you met on study-abroad to ask if you can crash on his couch. I’m saying, work your connections. In Ireland, everyone knows everyone. Even if you aren’t Irish yourself, if you have a friend who has a connection there, consider asking your friend to connect you. I stayed just outside Ennis, Co. Clare with my dad’s cousin’s partner’s niece, whom I had never met before and to whom I’m not actually related. Travel is about new friends and new experiences, and Ireland tends to be more laid-back about visitors than the States. Don’t overstay your welcome, and you’ll be surprised the connections you’ll forge!
4. Budget Food. What, you want to travel and eat like a decent human being? Travel food budgeting is tricky because, let’s face it, you really want to use some of your food budget for alcohol. Pioneers and tee-totalers, I salute you. If you’re REALLY on a budget, and you REALLY can’t afford to splurge, decide how much you’re willing to spend each day before you get on that plane. Make your own meals when you can (hello, Tesco, Aldi, and Lidl supermarkets). Stay somewhere with a free breakfast. Only drink water at meals. Bring your favorite brand of power-bar/pick-me-up snack with you to ward off the hungry horrors when you’re out exploring. However: you should, if possible, leave wiggle room in your budget for those moments that make traveling in Ireland so memorable. Buying chips (french fries) smothered in salt and vinegar from a late-night chipper after a night out? Caving in for “just one more pint”, resulting in getting locked in the bar with the best musicians you’ve heard on this green earth? These are moments you won’t find in any budget spreadsheet.
5. Budget Time. Many visitors to Ireland seem to take the same approach when planning their time abroad: visit as many places as they can cram in to a week. Two days in Dublin, followed by two in Galway, followed by two at the Ring of Kerry will get you to most of the tourist attractions in half the country. Can you truly experience a place in just 48 hours? Never mind all the travel time and logistics spent getting from here to there. And what if you want a day to relax and explore your surroundings at your own pace? I think having two destinations is perfect for a week’s vacation. Spend three days at one location and four at the other, giving yourself time to settle in a bit. If you get restless, try planning multiple destinations in the same general area. In Galway City, you can go out to Connemara, go visit the Cliffs of Moher, or take a trip to Westport in Co. Mayo.
6. Be Flexible. The mother of all travel tips! Flexibility saves your wallet and your sanity. If you find yourself stranded due to an overbooked hostel, dig around or ask the hostel staff their recommendation for another place. If you can’t find your favorite brand of yogurt/snack bar/soup, buck up and try the local brand. Miss your bus? Swallow that 20 euro of pride that you’ll never get back and catch the next one. Plans for the day fall through? Make up your own. Unless there’s a true emergency, any setbacks you encounter in Ireland may be handled with a good attitude and resourcefulness.
There you have it. Plan ahead; budget travel; budget room & board; budget food; budget time; and be flexible. If you want to take a trip, start making PB & J sandwiches and save those pennies. A little ingenuity goes a long way when traveling Ireland–or anywhere!–on a budget.
The main thing is to write
for the joy of it. Cultivate a work-lust
that imagines its haven like your hands at night
dreaming the sun in the sunspot of a breast.
You are fasted now, light-headed, dangerous.
Take off from here. And don’t be so earnest,
so ready for the sackcloth and the ashes.
Let go, let fly, forget.
You’ve listened long enough. Now strike your note.
From Seamus Heaney’s Station Island XII.
Seamus Heaney, the great Irish poet, has created some of my favorite poetic images. I studied Station Island in college, and always return to it as a source of writing inspiration. Station Island is also the name of an island off the coast of Donegal, Ireland’s northernmost county. Heaney is in the middle of writer’s block, until James Joyce leaps from the shadows to slap some sense into him. “Don’t be so earnest!”
Would that we all were lucky enough to have our own island of solitude.